Sunday, 13 November 2011

Maasai Land ...

I had the most wonderful time with the Maasai people for the last 2 days and nights - their homes may not be what I am used to but the welcome and friendliness of the people made it worthwhile - and actually a bed made of sticks and cow hide is actually quite comfortable! Enjoy the photos. I will miss these people and all those in Kenya I have grown to love. I leave tomorrow (Monday night) for Zimbabwe and am sure the venture will continue in a totally different way. But I will look forward to returning to once again spend time with my Kenyan friends.
The "pick up" I had to travel almost an hour and a half in - lucky I got to sit in the front, although with 4 of us squashed in there was a little "tight". It was a rather worn and battered vehicle - I could see light around the door so wasn't sure if it was shut properly but it didn't fly open so that was a bonus.

Part of the road - a creek crossing - remember this photo when you see the last picture of my mode of transport for the return trip!

Solomon and I - this is his family's village and he invited me to come to stay with them.

The house I would be sleeping in - made of sticks and cow dung. And notice the height of the house and the height of me! Plus there are no windows (see picture below)

The kitchen where all cooking is done and light and warms are given (plus LOTS of smoke)



My little shadow Elizabeth and Namnyat (me) - that is my new Maasai name - and I have even been offered a spot to build my house, right next to the central cow corral.

The "gate" to the corral where all the houses are as well as the animals pens - as they need to keep them inside the Bomar as there are wild animals such as leopards and hyenas who would easily kill the cattle, sheep and goats. Tiny baby goats are kept inside the houses in their own special room, at night.

The goats coming home, the women come out with cups and grab one and milk them as they go past. Very efficient way of getting your goats milk.

Goats penned for the night.

There are no toilets so I was up before daybreak to use wherever I could find inside the "fence" as I wasn't venturing outside to see if leopards or hyena were about!
The cows came in a bit after dark as because it is so dry they need to be taken further for food each day. They are right in the centre of the Bomar with the houses on the outside of their fence.

My shadow and I at the cattle troughs where they baptised over 60 people earlier this year

The garden started by my friend Vanessa - is growing really well - but they need to expand it to better feed the whole community. Maasai don't traditionally keep gardens but they are doing wonderfully with this one.

My first night sleeping with my little shadow. Notice the cow dung walls.


They had built some "bathing" houses - my bucket of cold water ready to use. Was a 12 minute walk to here where there is a tap with water, across a rocky, dry, desert landscape with just a few tracks but you really can't see any buildings until you are almost there! Plenty of animals around - donkeys, goats, cows, and then the wild ones but unfortunatley (or fortunately) I didn't see any while I was walking.


Notice behind here the bed and then the "window" - that small area of light. The roof is quite black because of the smoke and my eyes took a while to adjust but it was OK.
Ladies in Church - dressed absolutely beautifully in their best clothes and necklaces. The colours are amazing.


Sitting waiting for lunch
Outside the church

Well in these areas on Sunday there is no transport so here I got for a 45 minute ride on the rocky, gravelly, dusty, dirt road - was fun really. Now I think I have used all modes of public transport in Kenya! After we got back to town I got a Matatu to Nairobi - the crowded ones! What a way to end a wonderful time.

And of course we had to bring a cat home - tied up - in a bag - then in a box - tied again! Hope it enjoyed the ride as well.

Friday, 11 November 2011

Trains - Planes - Automobiles - Tuk Tuks

Well the train trip to Mombassa turned out to be one of the more "interesting" and TIA (this is Africa) of my times here - 25 hours after leaving our home we finally arrived at Watamu - 2 hours from Mombassa where we were staying. Taxi - train - taxi - plane - taxi - matatu - tuk tuk. I have now been on all modes of transort EXCEPT the motorbike and not sure if I am game enough for that - although I could have to do that to get back on Sunday. Why would I want to come home after experiencing all this FUN. Got to swim for the first time in a lovely bay and then a pool, the thin air is doing me good I think - and saw some awesome countryside - so much like Australia, the red dirt and cactus of the outback - how can I be homesick? Saw many different villages and people and ways of living as well as Mombassa - by the way, don't bother planning a trip there - the two rubbish dumps in the middle of town really don't do anything for those who can smell at all! Found a quiet beach far from everything the last night we were there - was absolutely beautiful - enjoy the pics, they will tell the story (sorry some are sideways and don't have time to change them now). And yes, saw my first snake - right next to the car - a big cobra - reared up at us. Amazing!

Yep a big cobra rearing up at us right next to the car. I was even excited and not scared!

Beach Babe - last beach we stayed at - was beautiful

At the train station - I think I was upper class!

Naa didn't even look in here!

Joy and I in our compartment ready to travel - excited as teenage girls on their first trip!

Got off the train after the 11 hour stop and had to have a look around. As you can see, the seat needs a few repairs
All Aboard - Boarding the train for the first time

All aboard again - BACK to Nairobi

And ... the train loo


Waiting - will this train ever move again???

I know you aren't supposed to do this but hey who could resist - had to watch all the animals, gazelle, wildebeest, zebra, etc - sooooo much fun

The slum areas right beside the train tracks




Tuk Tuk ride - reminiscing of our time in the tuk tuks in Thailand together

This hartebeest wasn't impressed I was walking in his territory and was snorting at me

Like a true Maasai (note the shuka over my shoulder) - looking towards Mount Kilimanjaro (I saw it behind the clouds)

My shuka was a great accessory as it was rather chilly in the early morning on the mountain

Elephants had passed before us

camping for the night - just in case it rained as we didn't want to put up the tent flys

Yep I went in the cave - then looked down and noticed all the animal footprints and realised lions and leopards LOVE caves - so I didn't go where it was so dark I couldn't see!

Slum areas beside the train tracks coming into Nairobi
Tuk Tuk stuck in the sand - I think we were a little too heavy!



More slum areas coming into Nairobi

ditto - notice the "shops" right beside the tracks


A very old part of Mombassa town - historical area - very narrow alley ways

And yes you have high level and low level toilets!

Could this be the Aussie outback?





Walking the beach - beautiful - but heaps of weed

Sunset looking out over the beach from our verandah - Tiki Beach

Will we make the bridge?


One of the two rubbish dumps in Mombassa - the smell from BOTH was totally disgusting!

Gorgeous little girl in the back alleys



Stop for lunch beside the road

Mangoes - $3.50 for the whole container full

Monkeys always turn up everywhere

This is how you carry your water on a motor bike and this is where you dump the gravel/dirt to fix the road, and leave it here for 6 months until you get more money to go ahead and fix it - fun trying to navigate through this - with vehicles coming in the opposite direction

In an old ruins of Gede - an ancient town mainly from the Arabians and Somalis - Muslim - in the early 1300's

Star fish I found - I even picked it up!

Sunset view from my window at Watamu